Purely Chinese restaurants are a vanishing breed on Long Island. Here are three where there's nary a California roll or pad Thai in evidence:
THE ORIENT, Bethpage
Owner Tommy Tan is always coming up with new variations on Chinese standards at this Bethpage stalwart. Garlic-fried chicken, honey-walnut shrimp and any noodle dish are good bets. Better yet, consult with Tan.
623 Hicksville Rd., 516-822-1010
HUNAN TASTE, Greenvale
Hunan Taste gives all due respect to classics such as spareribs, chicken soong, lobster Cantonese, Peking duck and tangerine beef. But make sure you ask about the daily vegetable and seafood specials.
3 Northern Blvd., 516-621-6616
YAO'S DINER, Centereach
Yao's Diner is LI's best source for authentic northern Chinese cooking in all its fiery, sour, rich glory. Fried lamb with cumin, steamed pork ribs, pickled cabbage and Chinese celery with bamboo shoots are among the revelations. English-language menu guidance can be spotty.
2503 Middle Country Rd., 631-588-2218