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The Lavraki, or whole branzini, is a specialty (Credit: Jonah Markowitz)

The Lavraki, or whole branzini, is a specialty at Kyma in Roslyn.

The 10 best seafood restaurants on Long Island: Eat here now

Finding outstanding seafood at Long Island restaurants is harder than it should be. You go through plenty of the overcooked, the badly fried, the brutally broiled -- but there also are beacons that almost compensate for all the others. Here are Newsday's choices for the best seafood in Nassau and Suffolk in 2015.

Artie's South Shore Fish & Grill

Artie's South Shore Fish & Grill, Island Park:
(Credit: Newsday/ Erica Marcus)

Artie's South Shore Fish & Grill, Island Park: Not only does his eatery share quarters with a fish market, but owner Artie Hoerning is a commercial fisherman who reels in much of what he sells and serves. Decor is modest in the extreme, plates are paper, but the selection of local seafood in season is unsurpassed on Long Island. Excellent lobster rolls, fried clams, and fried or broiled whole fluke. BYOB and cash only. (Pictured: A swordfish steak sauteed in blackened butter and served with sauteed spinach and French fries.)

Clams on the half shell from Artie's Fish
(Credit: Kirsten Luce)

Clams on the half shell from Artie's Fish and Grill in Island Park.

Fishbar

Fishbar, Montauk: Jennifer Meadows' bright, straightforward seafooder with
(Credit: Doug Young)

Fishbar, Montauk: Jennifer Meadows' bright, straightforward seafooder with a view of Lake Montauk specializes in fresh, local fish. Recommended: jalapeno-and-corn fritters, fluke tartare with avocado and radishes, fish tacos, oven-roasted tilefish with fennel and a caper-tomato vinaigrette, steamed lobster, lobster roll, pan-seared scallops with baby artichokes and lentils, New England-style clam chowder, grilled octopus with fingerling potatoes and harissa sauce, octopus escabeche with plantains and lemon and Key lime pie. (Pictured: Pan-seared tilefish with lemon burre blanc, grilled vegetables and roasted potatoes.)

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A tuna burrito is served at Fishbar in
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

A tuna burrito is served at Fishbar in Montauk.

H2O Seafood & Sushi

H2O Seafood & Sushi, Smithtown: This Main Street
(Credit: Alessandro Vecchi)

H2O Seafood & Sushi, Smithtown: This Main Street staple renewed its commitment to sushi in the last couple of years, but it remains a reliable, all-around fish house. The decor suggests New England by way of LI. Recommended: sushi rolls, king crab and spicy tuna ''club,'' New England-style clam chowder, fried oysters with sauce remoulade (pictured), hazelnut-Parmesan-crusted swordfish, steamed lobster, lobster potpie, ''everything''-crusted tuna, shrimp and crabmeat cocktails, fried chicken, vanilla cheesecake, cinnamon doughnuts and coffee pot de creme.

Lobster dusted with spiced flour and sauteed is
(Credit: Alessandro Vecchi)

Lobster dusted with spiced flour and sauteed is served at H20 Seafood & Sushi in Smithtown.

Inlet Seafood

Inlet Seafood, Montauk: Six commercial fishermen established Inlet
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Inlet Seafood, Montauk: Six commercial fishermen established Inlet Seafood in 2006, and the waterside restaurant is where you'll truly find the catch of the day -- the raw and the cooked. Recommended: Montauk pearl oysters; sashimi and sushi; fluke tiradito; flounder piccata with tomatoes, olives, and capers; pan-seared sea scallops (pictured); steamed or broiled lobster; a spicy lobster roll wrapped with kombu seaweed paper; sauteed soft-shell crabs; miso cod with soba noodles and baby bok choy; Cajun-seasoned fish burritos and tacos; and Key lime pie.

Inlet Seafood in Montauk serves cooked fish as
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Inlet Seafood in Montauk serves cooked fish as well as an array of sushi, including this FM Station Roll.

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The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House

The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House, Roslyn: The
(Credit: Danielle Finkelstein)

The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House, Roslyn: The Jolly Fisherman has been serving up seafood since the Eisenhower administration and, while the decor recently got a sleek update, the menu has hardly changed. Fish comes fried, broiled or sauteed, accompanied by your choice of potato, salad or the daily veg. Skip newfangled offerings and stick with the excellent New England clam chowder, fried Ipswich clams or scallops dusted with paprika and broiled in butter. (Pictured: Pan-seared Chilean sea bass with spinach and stuffed baked potato.)

Steamed lobster is one of the many seafood
(Credit: Yana Paskova)

Steamed lobster is one of the many seafood offerings at The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House in Roslyn.

Kyma

Kyma, Roslyn: Greek simplicity shines at Kyma, Roslyn's
(Credit: Jonah Markowitz)

Kyma, Roslyn: Greek simplicity shines at Kyma, Roslyn's bustling seafood scene. The handsome restaurant excels with grilled octopus (pictured), shrimp saganaki, grilled tiger shrimp, fish soup with grouper and, especially, whole, charcoal-grilled fish like royal dorado, black sea bass, red snapper and branzino.

The Lavraki, or whole branzini, is a specialty
(Credit: Jonah Markowitz)

The Lavraki, or whole branzini, is a specialty at Kyma in Roslyn.

Limani

Limani, Roslyn: Limani specializes in seafood, especially whole
(Credit: Johnny Simon)

Limani, Roslyn: Limani specializes in seafood, especially whole fish, as well as Greek fare and opulence. It looks like an over-the-top temple to a contemporary Poseidon with high prices and fine choices. Recommended: Greek spreads such as taramasalata and skordalia; grilled whole fagri (pictured), black sea bass and red snapper for two; halibut steak; langoustines; octopus; lamb chops; sirloin steak; Greek fries with oregano and kefalograviera cheese; thinly sliced and fried zucchini, eggplant and kefalograviera; Greek yogurt with thyme-honey and walnuts; and baklava.

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Limani serves grilled langoustine among its many seafood
(Credit: Johnny Simon)

Limani serves grilled langoustine among its many seafood offerings.

Noah's

Noah's, Greenport: The look is slightly industrial, very
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Noah's, Greenport: The look is slightly industrial, very sleek; Noah Schwartz's food, sharp and focused. His restaurant is both a neighborhood magnet and destination spot. Recommended: Long Island clam chowder, with a trace of cream; crab-stuffed deviled eggs (pictured); crisp Tasmanian red crab tacos; the warm lobster roll; local oysters and clams on the half-shell; fish and chips, with Atlantic cod and Greenport Harbor beer batter; Crescent Farm pulled duck and duck confit with fingerling potatoes; shrimp and grits; Key lime pie; and strawberry shortcake.

Grilled sardines are served at Noah's in Greenport.
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Grilled sardines are served at Noah's in Greenport.

The Plaza Cafe

The Plaza Cafe, Southampton: Douglas Gulija, a master
(Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti)

The Plaza Cafe, Southampton: Douglas Gulija, a master of seafood, meticulously prepares creative, full-flavored fish and shellfish dishes, as he has here since 1997. The atmosphere is casual and elegant, bright and warm. Recommended: lobster-and-shrimp shepherd's pie under a chive-potato crust; grilled, wild striped bass, with chowder broth; lobster bruschetta; pan-seared calamari with hummus, piquillo peppers, preserved Meyer lemon and olives; prosciutto-wrapped wild Pacific shrimp with porcini risotto; lobster-and-corn chowder (pictured); duck spring roll and seared breast; and all desserts.

Seared local calamari is served over hummus, and
(Credit: Doug Young)

Seared local calamari is served over hummus, and garnished with piquillo peppers and kalamata olives in a sherry vinagrette at The Plaza Cafe in Southampton.

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Bigelow's

Bigelow's, Rockville Centre: This landmark clam shack has
(Credit: Newsday / Rebecca Cooney)

Bigelow's, Rockville Centre: This landmark clam shack has been serving up seafood since 1939 along a distinctly unmaritime stretch of Sunrise Highway. The kitchen has a breading station, a grill and a couple of fryolators; the dining room, a curved counter with 30 stools. The main attraction here is fried seafood -- whiting, shrimp, calamari, smelts, oysters, scallops - but the undisputed stars of the show are the fried Ipswich clams, soft-shell and with the bellies still attached (pictured). Cash only.

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