The concept of the bistro has been pushed and pulled so much that the term has multiple meanings around here. Maybe it's just a cozy, comfortable, casual spot with savory food. Here are three nominees.

FIRST AND SOUTH, Greenport

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There's plenty to enjoy, starting with the easygoing style. The newcomer is worth visiting for brunch, happy hour and/or dinner. Francophiles will enjoy the salt-cod brandade; pre-Olympic appetites, bangers and mash; anyone, the burger with fries and a root-beer float. Cash only.

GEORGE MARTIN, Rockville Centre

Now dubbed "the Original," this is the first eatery in the George Martin group. It's still the place to go for herb-roasted chicken, sesame tuna, "rustic" meatballs, pork jaeger schnitzel, fish tacos, Caesar salad, filet mignon sliders and a burger with blue cheese.

ROWDY HALL, East Hampton

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This Hamptons' mainstay combines bistro and pub, and is very good both ways. Recommended: Roquefort-walnut salad, escargots, croques monsieur and madame, the banh mi sandwich, Cobb salad, pan-roasted Duroc pork chop, steak frites, steamed mussels and fries, chili, and, of course, the Rowdy burger.