828 S. Oyster Bay Rd. Hicksville, NY 516-605-0655
Located next to a hotel, this restaurant specializes in sushi; it also features pan-Asian dishes such as hibachi-grilled entrees, tempura, rice, noodles and Chinese dishes such as Kung Po chicken, General Tso's chicken, orange-flavored beef and curried shrimp.Hours: Mon-Thu: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Fri: 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sat: 12:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sun: 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Ambience: Very Good Service: Very Good Credit cards: Accepted Accessibility: One-level dining area.
The sign outside the Days Inn advertises low weekly rates and, a few lines down, "restaurant." Blue Fish makes you want to check in. This sparkling Japanese eatery succeeds a series of dismal dining rooms that took up space adjoining the motel. The remade rooms keep little more than the footprint. Open 10-foot doors and enter a red-dominated lounge sporting an illuminated, onyx bar. Enter the sushi salon, glittery in a cool-blue hue. Along this stretch of South Oyster Bay Road, it's like Vegas. And the food has flair to spare.
Order spicy tuna dumplings, wrapped in wonton skin and deep-fried, capped with a round of jalapeño pepper. It's your wake-up call. The artfully arranged rectangles of flavor dubbed a "tuna pizza" also have a peppery kick, plus cilantro, avocado and a snappy citrus glaze - fine foils for the velvety fish. The "5-flavor sashimi" delivers a skyline of tuna, white tuna, yellowtail, salmon and king crab, each with a tasty crown, from mango salsa to wasabi-yuzu sauce. Seared salmon finished with sea salt and plum sauce is topped with black olives. And the white tuna "sandwich" is a playful winner. Competition comes from colorful sushi rolls. They're harmonious, tasty choices, especially compared with over-orchestrated productions elsewhere. The "volcano," complete with a flaming oyster shell accompaniment, includes shrimp tempura, avocado, roe and tuna, wrapped in a union of soybean, seaweed and apple salsa. Highlighting the cooked: tender steak teriyaki with bok choy, pan-fried pork dumplings, miso-glazed black cod.
The familiar sushi and sashimi are fresh and good. Fried calamari goes international in a Thai-style sweet-hot sauce. Satisfactory shrimp-and-vegetable tempura, stir-fried udon noodles and miso soup; standard ice-cream desserts, better fried banana.
THE BOTTOM LINE