Bryant & Cooper
2 Middle Neck Rd. Roslyn, NY 516-627-7270
Bryant & Cooper ranks among the top all-around Long Island steak houses, straightforward and recommended for porterhouse and sirloin, filet mignon and rib. Also: very good shellfish, vegetables, and a linguine with white clam sauce to make tricolor-waving competitors jealous.Hours:
12 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 12 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday; 5 p.m.-12 a.m. Saturday; 3 p.m.-10 p.m. Sunday.Ambience:
The "steak of seafood" gets classic treatment at this top L.I. steakhouse: a blackboard special of beefy yellowfin from chef Robert Herrera is coated with black and white sesame seeds, pan-seared in sesame oil, finished with miso-mirin sauce. It's one of our 10 favorite tuna dishes on Long Island.
Bryant & Cooper revels in steak and presents it with flair. It's one of the best beef houses on Long Island.
But part of the appeal of this clubby, buoyant, engaging restaurant is that while the specialty is red meat, almost everything else on the menu is very good, too.
This is a place to enjoy stone crabs and Dover sole, linguine with white clam sauce and big, broiled lobsters. They're all excellent.
The crab meat cocktail, the shrimp cocktail, and the Gorgonzola-strewn salad are among the respectable openers.
For the carnivorous, consider the options in this order: sirloin, porterhouse, filet mignon, rib steak, prime rib, veal chop, lamb chops.
Lesser selections include standard-issue chicken dishes and shrimp sautes, continental variations with veal and the like.
On the side, the essentials are cottage fries, hash browns, creamed spinach.
Desserts are far from afterthoughts. Enjoy the cheesecake, pecan pie, creme brulee and pretty much whatever you want, room allowing.