Not to be confused with the similarly named restaurant in Huntington, this handsome Oyster Bay fish house and pub has, for more than a decade, been a popular local gathering spot. Folks like the comfortable atmosphere, steeped in memorabilia of Teddy Roosevelt, as well as the wide-ranging American-eclectic menu.

You can order from the daily roster of fresh oysters, get a superior burger, or try one of the more adventurous specials. Blue crab clawcakes, for starters, are simple and more than just good. On a recent visit, bison steak was delivered rare, as ordered, and was flavorful and tender. A horseradish and honey mustard crust did justice to a delicate piece of salmon.

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Ask about which desserts are house-made. If they've got bread pudding, then go for it.

TR himself would approve of the hearty, honest fare served here. --Joan Reminick