The Cantonese specialty chow fun features broad, flat rice noodles that are quickly stir-fried in a very hot wok. The classic version is done with beef, but you'll also find variations using shrimp, chicken, pork or vegetables. Here are some to seek out.

RUBY ASIAN FUSION & SUSHI BAR

While this sleek and modern fusion spot sports a trendy sushi bar, it also offers a hyper-comforting rendition of shrimp chow fun.

8285 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-224-4660, rubyasian.com

YAO'S DINER

This nexus of Sichuan and Hunan authenticity serves a chow fun that offers a mellow counterpoint to more fiery dishes. 

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503 Middle Country Rd., Centereach, 631-588-2218

TEN89 NOODLE HOUSE

At this no-frills Chinese eatery popular with Stony Brook students, the vegetable chow fun is imbued with subtle smokiness. 

1089 Rte. 25A, Stony Brook, 631-689-1089, 1089nh.com

Feed Me

LUNA GARDEN

This warm and friendly dining spot offers shrimp chow fun, which carries a lovely smokiness. This is the kind of dish you may find yourself powerless to stop eating. 

170 Jericho Tpke. Syosset, NY 516-864-2738