This Rat Pack-themed restaurant (Frankie, Dino and Sammy would feel right at home) is better than ever. Come on a weeknight, and you'll find a lounge singer regaling diners with Sinatra favorites and 1960s standards. On weekends, the music is recorded.

Once you're seated, your waiter, in wiseguy garb (black shirt, skinny tie) will straddle a vacant chair or lean over an occupied one, telling you how to order (portions feed at least two, so share), showing you a colander filled with uncooked pasta (what, we don't know what pasta looks like?) Relax and go with the flow.

The Italian fare is boffo. After ordering from the daily-changing menu, you'll be presented with some crusty Italian bread and assorted imported olives with bits of nutty Parmesan cheese in olive oil.

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The menu changes weekly. If the rice ball is on the menu, get it. As big as a bocce ball, it's filled with ground beef and peas at its center, dolloped with ricotta, doused with a rich tomato sauce.

Pasta is unerringly al dente and grand. Rigatoni with the aptly named "Grandma's old-fashioned pork sauce" features tender braised pork in a robust tomato sauce. A lusty version of chicken scarpariello, boneless chunks of poultry with potato, sausage, mushrooms and peppers, is redolent of lemon and garlic. And while the seared Chilean sea bass with a balsamic glaze and spinach may not be an old-fashioned dish, most modern nonnas would certainly approve of it.

For dessert, a layered chocolate mousse cake (white, dark and milk chocolates) is okay, but not on a par with what's come before. Better is the rich and creamy tiramisu and an espresso.

The restaurant, which draws large weekend crowds, doesn't accept reservations, so plan accordingly.