That was some spectacular Cuban sandwich I had at D’Canela, a new pan-Latin restaurant in Amagansett. Juicy roasted pork, ham, pickles and Swiss and spicy mustard on grill-pressed slightly sweet bread was pure joy.

So, how did that same kitchen send out such an unappealing fish taco? Oily fried bits of fish drizzled with a dark red sauce were thrown on top of soft corn tacos; rice, carelessly heaped onto the plate, covered half the fish. There was not so much as a leaf of cilantro, a shred of slaw on the plate.

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Redemption came in the form of  dessert: an opulently creamy flan I could not keep my spoon out of.

Go figure.