So I’m checking out the towels at Pottery Barn’s outlet in Riverhead when — wham —  hunger hits. No food court fodder for this food fanatic, so girlfriend and I head toward town for sustenance.

I’ve been to Farm Country Kitchen before, but it’s still a challenge to find the little sign on the right side of the road. A little clearing with just a few parking spots; I walk a short path to a house by the river.

Out on the warm veranda, chilly breezes are kept at bay by a clear plastic enclosure that  doesn’t obstruct the view of the Peconic. We order from chef-owner Tom Carson’s daily changing menu. I get the "arugula" salad featuring a lovely slab of rare seared tuna rubbed with lemon pepper oil, endive, croutons, goat cheese, tomatoes and red onions, blue cheese dressing on the side. Pal gets the “Genzano” salad of grilled chicken, green apples, almonds, carrots, cabbage, grape tomatoes and chickpeas over a spring mix of greens with balsamic dressing. Everything so fresh and light. Paper plates not a problem for me.

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New at Farm Country Kitchen: Dinner is now offered Tuesday to Sunday. Behind the stove those nights is chef de cuisine Todd Sabatini, who cooked at Tierra Mar in Westhampton Beach. Menu includes lots of pastas as well as chicken and fish dishes. Sounds intriguing.