Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Chef Jonathan Levine has waved goodbye to Wave Seafood Kitchen, the waterside restaurant at Danfords Hotel & Marina in Port Jefferson. In 2011, Levine garnered a three-star review from Newsday's Peter M. Gianotti, who called his cooking "precise and meticulous." Levine's reason for leaving was to pursue a new passion: barbecue.  Levine said he fell in love with the genre while traveling through the South. Currently, he's working on the launch of Smokeshack Blues BBQ, which will be situated on Port Jefferson's Main Street. If all goes as planned, the place should open in early fall.

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Meanwhile, taking the reins at Wave is Jeff Bunbury, who was executive sous chef under Levine and, before that, chef de cuisine at Tellers: An American Chophouse in Islip and executive sous chef at H2O in Smithtown.  For summer, Bunbury is putting his own spin on such dishes as a tuna tartare napoleon with avocado and cucumber ($16), grilled swordfish over quinoa and tabbouleh with bacon onion jam ($28), and pan seared sea scallops with spaetzle, peas and carrots in truffle butter ($32).

Wave Seafood Kitchen is at Danfords Hotel & Marina, 25 E. Broadway, Port Jefferson, 631-928-5200.