Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

A lucky strike, finding a creditable Vietnamese summer roll one recent afternoon at - of all places - a Melville bowling center.

300 Long Island is part of a nine-venue group of such centers scattered nationwide, all under the AMF banner, all serving up the identical menu.

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At lunch, a friend and I found the place fairly quiet. Seated at high tables, we began with the surprisingly bright summer rolls ($10), the sheer, shiny wrappers filled with fresh cilantro, lettuce, cucumber and shrimp. Lots of crunch and freshness. A puffy-crusted broccoli and spinach pizza with pesto ($11) came off as a bit doughy and pungently garlicky. Fish tacos ($10), made with grilled tilapia and pico de gallo, would have been fine but cried out for better tomatoes. So, too, did a Cobb salad ($11) lacking one Cobb essential ingredient  — avocado.

Still, the food was much better than you’d expect at a bowling alley.

300 Long Island Grill is at 895 Walt Whitman Rd., Melville, 631-271-1180

Above: Vietnamese shrimp and vegetable summer rolls at 300 Long Island in Melville