Aegean Grill, East Northport: First bites

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Tender, meaty octopus at Aegean Grill in East

Tender, meaty octopus at Aegean Grill in East Northport Photo Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

A recent dinner at the new Aegean Grill in East Northport featured warm and efficient service. The space, which used to house Gyro Time, now sports an outside vestibule that traps cold air. Also new are heavy drapes on the lower portions of  the floor-to-ceiling windows lining the place. Still needed: full-length drapes to stem the chill that, nonetheless, wafts in.

A bowl of chicken lemon soup, included with most platters, proved citrusy and satisfying. A shame it was sloppily ladled into its bowl, spilling over onto the saucer beneath. Grilled octopus — a fat, meaty curled tentacle — was a hit, as was a platter of moist, well-spiced homemade “Greek gyro,” ($13.95), pork and lamb stacked on a stick and rotisserie-roasted before being sliced off. But while I liked the softly stewed lamb shank blanketed in a red sauce with hints of cinnamon, it came lukewarm atop overcooked orzo. Dessert, served gratis, was ekmek, a lovely mélange of shredded wheat, honey syrup and freshly whipped cream, the specialty of Barbara Stathatos, sister of owner Alex Stathatos.

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Aegean Grill is at 354 Larkfield Rd., East Northport, 631-266-3300.

Above: Octopus, anyone?

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