Choopan Grill in Selden, which used to be affiliated with the Hicksville restaurant of the same name, is now under new ownership. Rona Mirzai, chef-partner at one of New York’s first Afghan eateries, Ariana on Ninth Avenue, has taken over the spot with her three daughters.

The restaurant has been renovated and modernized, and Mirzai is overseeing the kitchen. The menu continues to reflect the distinctive food of Afghanistan, savory and sweet with influences from Asia and the Middle East.

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Highlights include mantoo (meat-filled steamed dumplings) and aushak (leek-filled boiled dumpling), refined rice dishes such as zamarut palow, “emerald” rice cooked with spinach, onions and cilantro, kormas (stews), kebabs and, for dessert, firnee, custard made with milk and slivered almonds, topped with finely grounded pistachios.

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Choopan Grill is at 1310 Middle Country Rd., Selden, 631-696-1817