Aquarelle 45 in Port Washington: First bites

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Swordfish with celery-root puree and olive-caper caponata is

Swordfish with celery-root puree and olive-caper caponata is served at Aquarelle 45 in Port Washington in February 2014. Photo Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

From the sparkling waterfront view to the brightened dining area, Aquarelle 45 makes you think spring is within reach. And the food is very good, too.

The new restaurant takes over the former address of Marino's on the Bay, at the Brewer Capri Marina near Manorhaven Beach Park. The theme: Mediterranean, with New American touches.

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Chef Anthony Sanzone's winning dishes include smoky, tender grilled octopus, with chickpea salad, yogurt and olive puree; and swordfish a la plancha, expertly grilled, set on a celery-root puree with an olive-and-caper relish.

Spring begins on March 20. Get a head start.

Aquarelle 45, 45 Orchard Beach Blvd., Port Washington; 516-883-5600.

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