Artie’s in Island Park: High-frying fish

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Fried fluke is a specialty at Artie's South

Fried fluke is a specialty at Artie's South Shore Fish & Grill in Island Park. (May 21, 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Whole grilled fish, it’s the hip, cool, Mediterranean way to go. But last night I took a stroll down memory lane with a whole, deep-fried fluke at Artie’s South Shore Fish & Grill in Island Park.

It’s hard to imagine any cooking method that wouldn’t succeed with Artie’s fluke ($26): Proprietor Artie Hoerning caught them himself the day before. My dad went the heart-healthy route (possibly due to my stern presence) and ordered his fluke broiled, and it was briny, succulent perfection. The question is, can briny, succulent perfection ever equal briny, crispy perfection?

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In for a penny, in for a pound, so I made my potato order French fries — Artie’s are excellent. For my vegetable I chose steamed asparagus but found that after I’d polished off the fish and the fries, the asparagus remained on the plate. Deep fried asparagus. Now there’s an idea whose time has come.

Artie's South Shore Fish and Grill is at 4257 Austin Blvd. Island Park, 516-889-0692.

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