Arties in Island Park: High-frying fish

Fried fluke is a specialty at Artie's South Fried fluke is a specialty at Artie's South Shore Fish & Grill in Island Park. (May 21, 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Whole grilled fish, its the hip, cool, Mediterranean way to go. But last night I took a stroll down memory lane with a whole, deep-fried fluke at Arties South Shore Fish & Grill in Island Park.

Its hard to imagine any cooking method that wouldnt succeed with Arties fluke ($26): Proprietor Artie Hoerning caught them himself the day before. My dad went the heart-healthy route (possibly due to my stern presence) and ordered his fluke broiled, and it was briny, succulent perfection. The question is, can briny, succulent perfection ever equal briny, crispy perfection?

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In for a penny, in for a pound, so I made my potato order French fries Arties are excellent. For my vegetable I chose steamed asparagus but found that after Id polished off the fish and the fries, the asparagus remained on the plate. Deep fried asparagus. Now theres an idea whose time has come.

Artie's South Shore Fish and Grill is at 4257 Austin Blvd. Island Park, 516-889-0692.

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