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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Remember the now-departed Empire Szechuan Gourmet in Syosset? In 2012, that restaurant was reborn as Tao. Because of legal objections from the Manhattan restaurant called Tao, the name was changed to Dao. But that turned out to be too similar to Tao, so with the removal of one letter, the place became simply Ao. An easy change on the sign.

Ao, however, sounded too much like a cry of pain.

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So, what nao? It’s called Hao.

Yes, really. The current name means “good” in Chinese, said manager Gilbert Chang, who added that the ownership changed about a month ago. And that, he said, will mean another new name. Which — tentatively — is Din Din.

Again, you can’t make this stuff up.

The menu remains essentially the same as it’s been throughout the recent incarnations — Tao, Dao and Ao: Mainly Chinese and Japanese, with a little Thai and, of course a sushi bar.

Hao is at 6600 Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-931-3663, haosyosset.com.