Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Gino's Pizzeria & Ristorante of Williston Park is a local landmark. Outstanding pizzas have been made here since 1979.

There's Sicilian pizza and Margherita pizza, pizza with spinach and ricotta and eggplant Parmigiana pizza, many others. But the one that stands out, especially in spring, is the asparagus-and-breadcrumb beauty.

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This square pie has cheese baked into the crust. The topping is very fresh, very tender asparagus, cut up like little logs, and a coating of crunchy, seasoned breadcrumbs that gives it added texture and flavor. This pizza isn't a slice pie. You must order a whole one. It's a terrific taste of the season for $24.

Of course, Gino's also is recommended for soups such as escarole and beans, pasta e fagioli, and stracciatelle alla Romana; generous salads and pastas; and first-class hero sandwiches, including broccoli rabe and grilled chicken, potato and eggs, and sausage and peppers.

In addition to the casual pizza parlor, Gino's also has a very comfortable dining room. Fine, attentive service in both.

Gino's Pizzeria & Ristorante, 628 Willis Ave., Williston Park; 516-746-2860.