Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Veteran Sichuan chef DInggen Wang lends his name to Chef Wang New Sichuan Cuisine, a new Chinese restaurant on Jericho Turnpike in New Hyde Park. It takes over the sprawling, bi-level space that once housed Kawa Sushi and, before that, Asian Buffet. The front doors bear signs promising both “Authentic Chinese Food” and “Authentic Japanese Sushi,” but it’s the first claim that's a relative rarity around these parts.

Chef Wang's menu features a number of regional specialties not often found on Long Island: fried beef or lamb with cumin, spicy pork hock, sliced fish with boiling oil soup, beef tendon with spicy and peppery sauce, pork intestine with bean pudding, grass carp head with minced spicy pepper. There are also five types of you-cook-at-the-table hot pots.

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General manager Richard Chao is from Shanghai and said that his delicate palate still hasn’t adjusted to the fiery-tingly Sichuan spices. But the menu also features some Shanghai specialties (such as steamed soup dumplings and Shanghai bok choy with shiitake mushrooms) as well as a full roster of Cantonese and Chinese-American dishes. Wonton soup, fried rice, lo mein, beef with broccoli, mu shu pork, General Tso’s chicken — all present and accounted for. And there is a full sushi bar menu, too. Most entrees are under $20.

Since the restaurant opened in February, Chao said, there hasn't been much of a demand for sushi, since most of the customers have been Chinese students from nearby Hofstra and Adelphi Universities seeking a taste of home.

According to Chao, the restaurant has the same ownership as two well-reviewed Chinese restaurants in Manhattan. Both are called Legend Sichuan Cuisine, one is in Chelsea, the other on the Upper West Side.

Chef Wang New Sichuan Cuisine is at 1902 Jericho Tpke., New Hyde Park, 516-354-2848, chefwangny.com.