Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The new Bangkok Pavilion in Kings Park, which took over the former digs of Sarin Thai (a short-lived spinoff of the still-open Greenvale original) offered a serene setting for a recent dinner. Polished wood floors and lovely upholstered chairs were elegant touches. Only one problem: large platters and small tables made for crowding, especially when dishes were shared.

Highlights of the meal included a properly hot and sour tom yum goong soup with shrimp as well as a Thai variation on wonton soup wherein a savory broth floated very light dumplings. An unusually assertive topping: fried garlic.

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A comforting choice was pad see ew, flat rice noodles with broccoli, egg and — as the protein pick — beef. Wish the meat hadn't been so chewy. No such problem with an entree of Bangkok duck ($18), crisp fried skin overlaying tender poultry. Every bite delivered a spicy kick.

The restaurant is open Tuesday to Sunday.

Bangkok Pavilion is at 25 Main St., Kings Park, 631-269-4961.