Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

It was the scent of bacon wafting through the streets of Wading River that pulled me into North Fork Bacon & Smokehouse. Last year, when I ate at the casual counter-serve BBQ house, all manner of slow-smoked meats  (with the notable exception of bacon) were on hand. The place had simply run out of its namesake item. Not this time.

 So, what better to order than a classic BLT? Mine was simply loaded with bacon, dark, smoky and intense. My only quibble with the sandwich was that the tomatoes (out of season, I know) didn't come up to the level of the other ingredients. The smoked brisket in my companion's sandwich turned out to be even better than remembered, the meat ultra-juicy, subtly imbued with the flavor of wood smoke. 

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Bear in mind that this quirky little spot is only open Friday to Sunday, from noon to 8 p.m. And when they run out of something it's, well, better luck next time.

North Fork Bacon & Smokehouse is at 1 Sound Rd., Wading River, 631-886-2220.