Ralph Perrazzo, the restless chef-owner of BBD’s in Rocky Point, is grooving on a new obsession. Since it opened in 2013, the restaurant (whose name stands for Beers, Burgers, Desserts) has prepared burgers three ways, grilled, griddled and steamed. Now he is taking the same tripartite approach to chicken wings.

Classic confit wings are slowly poached in chicken fat, then flash-fried at a high temperature for maximum crispiness. Paired with a house-made Louisiana style hot sauce-and-buttermilk ranch dressing — both served on the side so as not to compromise the crunch.

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Buffalo broiled wings are treated to a double dose of house-made four-pepper hot sauce. First they are marinated for two days, then — after a fresh toss — broiled to a deliberate char.

Boneless wings are brined and braised and then, in a break from wing tradition, breaded to order. The breading includes fresh herbs and cornflakes and fries up light and crisp.

Saucy wings start with classic confit wings that are tossed in one of six house-made sauces: habanero and jalapeño sauces are made from peppers that the kitchen roasts over coals; smoked sriracha incorporates smoked jalapeños and garlic; traditional Louisiana style hot sauce; traditional spicy BBQ and, for the spice-averse, sweet chili sauce made with three fruit preserves.

Wings are $11 to $12 per order (for nine).

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BBD’s is at 49 Rte. 25A, Rocky Point, 631-849-1620, eatbbds.com