The word “bistro” is almost as abused as “grill.” The definition is as stretched as a household budget. Here are three spots that, for varying reasons, do fit in. And they’re especially good on a chilly night.

Hush Bistro, small, friendly, and chef-driven, highlights dining in Farmingdale. Go for “bar eats” such as deviled eggs and smoked St. Louis ribs; a kimchi-sparked chicken burger; plus scallop crudo, hibiscus-cured duck breast, butternut squash agnolotti with oxtail ragu; crisp chicken with fingerling potatoes and smoked tomato jam; and tasting menus.

Hush Bistro, 291 Main St., Farmingdale, 516-293-4874, hushamericanbistro.com

Bistro Cassis, cozy and flavorful, has a handsome look and a reliable kitchen. Try a croque monsieur, the toasted ham-and-cheese sandwich, or crepes at brunch; frisee aux lardons, onion soup gratinee; sole meuniere; duck shepherd’s pie; braised lamb shank; grilled hanger steak with Lyonnaise potatoes.

Bistro Cassis, 55-B Wall St., Huntington, 631-421-4122. bistrocassis.com

Waterzooi gives bistro a Belgian accent and plenty of very good beer. Sample the onion soup; Gouda-and-Gruyère fondue, spiked with farmhouse ale; the shellfish plateau; the cheese-and-cured meats board; mussel pots; beef stewed in brown ale; the namesake pan roast of shellfish; steak au poivre,

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Waterzooi, 850 Franklin Ave., Garden City, 516-877-2177, waterzooi.com