BlonDee's Bistro, Huntington, does dinner

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Thai chicken lettuce wraps at BlonDee's Bistro in

Thai chicken lettuce wraps at BlonDee's Bistro in Huntington. (March 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

When Two Blondes and a Stove morphed into BlonDee’s Bistro & Bar, owner Dena Fenza and executive chef Michael Hansen added a dinner menu of small plates to the breakfast and lunch options.

On a recent night, I stopped in for dinner. Having had breakfast and lunch there before, my expectations were generally high.

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And generally unmet. Kobe beef sliders, requested rare, were cooked to gray. A “Cuban” slider that combined pulled pork, chorizo, house-made pickles, Swiss and three-grain mustard was curiously dry. Sweet Thai chili meatballs served over pungent spicy kimchee had been so overcooked, I had trouble getting my fork into them. And while there was good flavor in the Thai lettuce wraps, the clunky grilled chicken logs, plated with an overwhelmingly creamy slaw and peanut sauce, were hard to put together and roll up in delicate little lettuce leaves.

The place, in its new incarnation, has been open for more than a month but clearly needs to work out some dinner issues.

BlonDee’s Bistro & Bar is at 26 Clinton Ave., Huntington, 631-673-1300.

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