The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
Southolds great bakery has scored some national recognition. In the latest issue of Saveur magazine, Blue Ducks Finnish rye ring is included in a list of the countrys top 20 loaves of bread. One of a host of European Ryes, writes Meryl Rosofsky, this dense rye ring (for which baker Keith Kouris ferments coarsely chopped unmilled rye berries) stems from the Finnish tradition of making circular loaves so that the bakers could string up their goods for sale.
This really is the big leagues; other bakeries on the list include Pain DAvignon, Sullivan Street and Balthazar in New York City, Bread Alone in Boiceville, N.Y., and Acme in Berkeley, Calif.
Blue Duck Bakery is at 56275 Route 25, Southold, 631-629-4123 and at 30 Hampton Rd., Southampton, 631-204-1701.
Long Island appears to be on a Saveur roll. It was only a few months ago that the magazine put Itgens Valley Stream ice cream parlor into the Saveur 100, the annual collection of its favorite foods, events, venues and people. Itgen's is at 211 Rockaway Ave. Valley Stream, 516-825-7444.