The number of very good and better seafood restaurants has risen like a wave in recent years. Here are three establishments where you’ll enjoy a taste of shellfish and finfish.

Catch Oyster Bar in Patchogue, no larger than a bluepoint, packs a lot of flavor in its small, streamlined space. Recommended: the variety of raw oysters, the oyster po’boy sandwich, New England- and Manhattan-style clam chowders, baked clam “stuffies,” the tuna poke and South Shore fish stew. Moderate to expensive

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Catch Oyster Bar, 63 N. Ocean Ave., Patchogue, 631-627-6860, catchoysterbar.com

Louie’s Grill & Liquors is the latest name of the Port Washington classic. The water view is unchanged. Recommended: shrimp cocktail, New England-style clam chowder, lobster tacos, steamed lobster, warm lobster roll, lobster Cantonese, sole en papillote, miso black cod with a yuzu-citrus glaze, panna cotta. Moderate to expensive

Louie’s Grill & Liquors, 395 Main St., Port Washington, 516-883-4242, louiessince1905.com

The Plaza Cafe in Southampton is Long Island’s essential seafood restaurant, handsome, creative, consistent, stellar. Recommended: shrimp-and-lobster shepherd’s pie, soy-acacia black cod, prosciutto-wrapped wild Pacific shrimp, local fluke sashimi, wild sockeye salmon crudo, local oysters, spring pea soup with grilled scallop. Expensive

The Plaza Cafe, 16 Hill St., Southampton, 631-283-9323, plazacafe.us