Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Dining out in Massapequa Park has just beefed up.

Cavendish & Ross Steakhouse opens in the former site of Varsity Grill with a broad, accessible menu that includes all the classic cuts a la carte, plus seafood and chicken courses with vegetables. The restaurant also has a well-chosen wine list and a bar.

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C&R takes its name from 16th Century English explorer Thomas Cavendish and 18th Century English explorer Sir John Ross. The restaurant's emblem is a compass.

 "We wanted to explore" the steakhouse concept and expand on it, said general manager Michael Landesberg. He described the restaurant as "upscale but unpretentious."

Chef Anthony Citarella previously cooked at Insignia in Smithtown. His appetizers include lamb sliders, Maryland crab cake, shrimp cocktail, fried oysters and fried calamari. In addition to the steaks, main courses take in grilled Scottish salmon,  pan-roasted shrimp with tasso ham, and a surf-and-turf of grilled striped bass and roasted short rib.

Main courses are in the $26 to $34 range; steaks, $35 to $60. The house's sirloin burger, with hand-cut fries, is $17.

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The restaurant is open from 4 to 10 p.m., Monday to Thursday; 4 to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday; and 3 to 9 p.m. on Sunday.

Cavendish & Ross Steakhouse, 4913 Merrick Rd., Massapequa Park; 516-308-7777.