Champ chaat at Spice Village Grill, Huntington

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At Spice Village Grill in Huntington, a special

At Spice Village Grill in Huntington, a special appetizer called chokri chaat features potatoes, chickpeas, yogurt and spiced chutneys. (July 25, 2013) Photo Credit: Erica Marcus

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Spice Village Grill is one of Huntington’s most dependable restaurants. You walk into the little kebab-centric South Asian eatery, you sit down, you are served good, soulful, well-priced food.

Last night a friend and I shared the lamb tikka kebab ($19) and the chicken seekh kebab (ground spiced chicken $16), both served with basmati rice and salad, both delicious.

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But the unquestioned highlight of the meal was the appetizer, a special called chokri chaat ($14). This proud structure hovered like a UFO on its sauce-strewn plate. According to the menu, it was composed of potatoes, chickpeas, yogurt and spiced chutneys, but I confess I could not discern the individual components. It was just crunchy and tender, spicy and savory and sweet, a truly memorable starter.

Spice Village Grill is at 281 Main St., Huntington; 631-271-4800,

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