Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Chow fun is big on comfort. The Cantonese specialty features broad flat rice noodles that are quickly stir-fried in a very hot wok. The classic version is done with beef, but you’ll also find variations using shrimp, chicken, pork or vegetables.

Here are some to seek out when you need easy eating.

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TEN 89 NOODLE HOUSE

At this no-frills Chinese eatery popular with Stony Brook students, the vegetable chow fun is imbued with subtle smokiness. $5.95

1089 Rte. 25A, Stony Brook, 631-689-1089, 1089nh.com

RUBY ASIAN FUSION & SUSHI BAR

While this sleek and modern fusion spot sports a trendy sushi bar, it also offers a hyper-comforting rendition of shrimp chow fun. $10

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8285 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-224-4660, rubyasian.com

YAO’S DINER

This nexus of Sichuan and Hunan authenticity serves a chow fun that offers a mellow counterpoint to more fiery dishes. $8.95

503 Middle Country Rd., Centereach, 631-588-2218

LUNA GARDEN

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At this old fashioned newcomer, the shrimp chow fun carries a lovely smokiness. This is the kind of dish you may find yourself powerless to stop eating.

170 Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-864-2738