Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Golden Dynasty is serving up General Tso's chicken, beef with broccoli and clams in black bean sauce in the freestanding St. James building that, for decades, housed Lotus East. In 2013, that Chinese restaurant was replaced by the short-lived Maru Asian, which inherited the worn and outdated look of its predecessor. The place cried out for a makeover.

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And a full renovation it has had, as I observed when stopping in for a peek at both the interior and the menu. The spacious dining room has a rather formal, traditional look, with leather-backed chairs and starched white tablecloths. Traditional, as well, is the Chinese repertoire, with such choices as General Tso's chicken, moo shu pork and Singapore chow mei fun. Prices run from $9.95 for vegetable delight to $34.95 for Peking duck.

Golden Dynasty is at 416 N. Country Rd., St. James, 631-250-9888