Cinco de Mayo in Calverton: First bites

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Trio of tacos at the new Cinco de Trio of tacos at the new Cinco de Mayo in Calverton: Taco al pastor, tongue taco and spicy pork taco. (January, 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The three tacos I had at for lunch at the Cinco de Mayo in Calverton were not only excellent; they also gave testimony to the authenticity and skill to be found at this new Mexican restaurant.

The spacious dining spot, open since November in the former home of Crossroads, is done up in red, green and white — the colors of the Mexican flag, proudly displayed.

Chef co-owner Refugio Iglesias, who cooked at such non-Mexican Manhattan restaurants as Harrison and Verbena, turns out a first-rate soft corn taco al pastor filled with pork rotisserie-roasted with pineapple, topped with guacamole and chopped cilantro. His taco de lengua, made with succulent pieces of tongue, was similarly crowned. So, too, a spicy pork taco shot through with subtle fire. Sharing the plate: chunks of radish and wedges of lime.

Each of the tacos was $3.50. The best things in life don’t have to cost a lot.

Cinco de Mayo Bar & Restaurant is at 3725 Middle Country Rd., Calverton, 631-591-2474.
 

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