Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Brasserie Cassis brings together style and substance. Antiques, classic posters, marble-top tables, and a lively spirit all combine to make you think you're far from a shopping center in Plainview.

So does the onion soup gratinee.

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Bracing, flavorful and concentrated, it's full of sweet onions in a satisfying stock, all under a toasted slice of baguette and a coverlet of melted Gruyere cheese that spills over the sides of the bowl. You could enjoy it year-round. But as the evenings turn chillier, the appeal rises faster.

And you can fantasize about an early morning visit to Au Pied de Cochon, the 24/7 Paris landmark where the soup is always a star. Meantime, Brasserie Cassis deftly plays the part.

Of course, you can follow the onion soup with the excellent roasted chicken or a savory lamb stew. Big dishes, big comfort.

Brasserie Cassis, 387 S. Oyster Bay Rd., Plainview; 516-653-0090.