Cozy and cheap in Huntington

The airy dining room at F.H. Riley's in

The airy dining room at F.H. Riley's in Huntington, where there are 13 beers on draft, including Magic Hat #9. Bottled beers are also served alongside such "well-crafted classics and American specialties" as "autumn harvest" salad (greens, fruit, nuts and warm sweet potato gnocchi croutons). (Credit: Handout)

Had an entirely pleasant meal the other night at F.H. Riley's in Huntington Village. The place is inexpensive, cozy, and has a great beer list. White tablecloths in a gastro-pub-like setting.

To start, I tried the onion soup, which was predictably salty but had a nice Gruyere-provolone cap and was sprinkled with scallions. My friend had the chicken gumbo soup, which was so thick and loaded with chicken chunks, spicy sausage and vegetables, that she was full before the bowl was half empty.

For mains, I ordered the salmon pita sandwich, piled high with fairly moist blackened fish, baby arugula, tomatoes and red onions. It had a goat-cheese spread on the bread and a huge pile of thin French fries on the side. Girlfriend was besieged with a gigantic slab of meat loaf  (veal, pork and sirloin) with melted Gruyere on top, mashed potatoes on the side and a large handful of onion rings for good luck.

The place is also noted for its hefty burgers and 10 different chopped salads.

In an area of Huntington where most of the restaurant tabs are more than a day's salary, a Riley's  dinner comes with appetizer and beer or wine for under $25. It's even cheaper at lunch.

F.H. Riley's is at  400 New York Avenue, Huntington, 631-271-7600. 

Handout photo

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