The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
A recent dinner at the new Cuzco Peru in Lynbrook showed off the bold global flavors of this sophisticated Latin American cuisine.
For starters, grilled octopus ($9.95) was beautifully plated, savory and tender. Another attractive appetizer was tamalitos ($7), a corn husk stuffed with corn kernels, pork, onion and tomato.
Peruvian rotisserie chicken, usually a forte of Peruvian restaurants, was all it should have been — well-burnished and infused with the flavor of its marinade. We got it whole ($12), but it’s also available in various combinations, including family-sized combos ($20 to $28) that feed at least four. The Peruvian version of Chinese fried rice, arroz chaufa, ordered with both chicken and beef ($14), might have been an all-around knockout had not both meats been dry and overcooked. To drink with all: red sangria ($18 half liter), sweet and fruit-filled.
Cuzco Peru is at 323 Merrick Rd., Lynbrook, 516-599-4727.