Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Not long ago, at  Show Win in Northport, I noticed — and ordered — a duck tortilla roll from a menu insert of dinner specials. The crisp and alluring little cylinders ($8), made with duck, scallions, hoisin sauce and flour tortillas, are fried and then cut on the bias. They bring to mind a much costlier, more complex dish: Peking duck.

Yet this was far from the first time I’ve encountered such a  dish. In fact, it’s been turning up at virtually every Asian restaurant I’ve hit during the past few months.

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To name just three recent examples:

The warm, hoisin-infused Asian duck roll made with a Chinese pancake (the kind used for mu shu pork) at Mermaid Asian Bistro & Bar in Ronkonkoma. $12 (846 Portion Rd., Ronkonkoma, 631-588-8885, mermaidasianbistro.com)

The irresistible duck “tortilla” at Kushi Japanese Fusion in Nesconset. $8 (127-23 Smithtown Blvd., Nesconset, 631-366-1688).

The  “ganga” roll at Fancy Lee Asian Bistro ‘n Sushi in Babylon. Here, the Indonesian pancake known as a roti enfolds roasted duck; it’s drizzled with hoisin and spicy remoulade. Knockout stuff. $9 (101 W. Main St., Babylon, 631-422-6505)

Show Win is at 325 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport, 631-261-6622.

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Can you add to the duck roll collection? Feel free to post comments.