Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

In the current climate of pizza excess, where hardworking crusts labor under toppings ranging from fried calamari to Buffalo chicken, Eddie's in New Hyde Park offers a window into the pizza past, when a pie was topped with tomato sauce and cheese. The signature "bar pie" hasn't changed in decades.

That bar pie, whose name Eddie's has trademarked, is an extremely thin, flat pizza with no discernible rim, whose tomato sauce and cheese are melded to the crust with the strength of Super Glue. Neither the crust nor the cheese nor the tomato stands out on its own, but the sum of their parts is altogether addictive.

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The New Hyde Park stalwart was founded by Eddie Fanelli, a small-time prizefighter, somewhere in the late '20s or early '30s, according to the current owner, Joe DiVittorio. In the '70s, a fire forced the little bar with a few tables a couple of doors down the block. DiVittorio and his father Nicholas bought the place in the early '80s and added the adjacent dining room around the same time. (The wood-paneled decor reads no later than the early '60s.)

Eddie's 10-inch bar pie, which weighs in at a relatively slim 270 calories, is $6.40.

Eddie's Pizza is at 2048 Hillside Ave., New Hyde Park, 516-354-9780, eddiespizzany.com.