Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The lounge-like Rein  is the main restaurant at the Garden City Hotel. The style is less formal than at its predecessors. Buy you still enjoy chef Steven De Bruyn's seasonal cuisine, which has a Mediterranean accent.

He prepares fine bucatini in a lamb ragu, finished with fava beans and mint; and a tasty, pan-seared pork chop with stone-fruit chutney. There's a good, grilled hanger steak; and better grilled lamb chops. The strawberry tart tops the desserts.

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None if this is inexpensive, even as the place mat has succeeded the tablecloth. The tab rises effortlessly. And when the panelled room gets crowded, the noise level goes even higher from the backlit onyx bar. Plasma TVs are tuned to sports. The staff: hotel-style efficient.

Rein, a name that now applies to all the main dining areas, also is open for brunch, tea and parties.

Rein is at 45 Seventh St., Garden City; 516-877-9385.

The new table at Rein.