Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The new Seven Quarts Tavern brings a gastropub vibe to the two-story Northport manse that last housed J. Michaels Tuscan Steakhouse. The restaurant's unusual name refers to the 1656 purchase of local land from Chief Asharoken of the Matinecock Indian tribe by three Englishmen. Said co-owner and manager Brian Adams, "The price was two coats, four shirts, seven quarts of liquor and 11 ounces of powder. I'm thinking that meant gunpowder."

Despite the restaurant's historical name, its cuisine, said Adams, is very much "modern American." In gastropub tradition, craft beers figure prominently. Right now, a rotating array of 11 draft beers (10 of which are craft brews) is augmented by selections in bottles and cans.

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Commanding the kitchen is executive chef David Dunn, who previously cooked at East Hampton Point in East Hampton and Cedar Creek in Glen Cove. On his menu are such small "share plates" as kettle chips (at $7, the menu's least-expensive item), tuna tartare and pork belly, as well as "large shares" that include mac and cheese, duck legs and a mussels hot pot. Those who don't feel like sharing can opt for such entrees as coriander crusted ahi tuna, red snapper and, at $42, the menu's costliest item, a 16-ounce cowboy rib-eye. A lunch menu, currently offered Monday to Friday, also includes sandwiches, ranging from a chicken, pear and arugula panino ($12) to a short rib panino ($16).

Seven Quarts Tavern is at 688 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport, 631-757-2000.