Serving more than 30 beers and an exuberant menu of re-imagined comfort food, The Crispy Pig has opened in Sea Cliff. It takes over the free-standing Glen Cove Avenue spot that was most recently (and very briefly) Grimaldi’s pizzeria but was, for many years, the Italian specialty market Buon Appetito. The new gastropub is owned by Buon Appetito’s proprietor, Michael Imbriano, and his wife, Jodie.

Like any good gastropub, The Crispy Pig is a study in exposed brick, reclaimed wood and naked Edison light bulbs. The dining room seats about 50.

advertisement | advertise on newsday

Executive chef Peter Kontomanolis, who has cooked at True North in Huntington and MP Taverna in Roslyn, has divided the menu into shareable starters (among them, “dirty” mac and cheese, made with Taleggio, provolone, pancetta and roasted-collard-green vinaigrette, $12; poutine with braised pork belly, $14; fried chicken and waffles with maple-cinnamon-apple sauce, $14); and mains including fusilli carbonara ($21), pork tenderloin potpie ($22), shrimp and grits with maitake mushrooms ($36) and the TCP burger with pork belly, crispy shallots, tomato jam, pepper jack cheese and baby arugula ($16).

In addition to a dozen beers on tap and another 22 in bottles, The Crispy Pig offers craft cocktails, 20 small-batch whiskeys and tequilas, and a brief, international wine list.

The Crispy Pig is at 243 Glen Cove Ave., Sea Cliff; 516-801-3250.