Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Huntington's Golden Dolphin Diner, which had been closed five months for a makeover and expansion, is up and running again. And, said owner Theodore Caligeros, it’s doubled in size, having taken over the space next door. On a recent visit, I observed an interesting layout — a ramp leading from the original diner to the adjacent area, everything brought together by a purplish-blue and beige color scheme. A distinguishing feature near the counter: a gelato case.

Now, said Caligeros, the menu has more than 400 items. What impressed me most, though, was  my lunch of a simple buffalo burger, ordered rare. The thick patty, served on a well-proportioned bun, had a lovely char and roseate interior. As bison burgers go, this one was a juicy, savory standout. Notable, as well, was my lunch date’s tuna salad sandwich. So who needs 400 items when the basics are done right?

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New to the menu: A breakfast skillet of eggs cooked with tomatoes and olive oil, apple crumb pancakes and “French toast delight” made with house-made raisin-cranberry bread and served with turkey bacon and one organic egg. There’s also a roster of stuffed double burgers — the Greek version has spinach and feta cheese. Among salad newcomers is one featuring grilled chicken with portobello and asparagus. An assortment of fresh fruit smoothies also joins the mix.

 Prices start at $4.95 for a scrambled egg sandwich and top out at — yikes — $56.95 for the Golden Dolphin Catch featuring Alaskan king crab legs. Most items, though, are under $20.

Golden Dolphin Diner is at 365 W. Main St., Huntington, 631-421-1508.