Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Dinner at the bar at Oevo starts before you order, since there are always trays of cheese fritters and house-cured olives at hand. A few nights ago, I followed up these fine bar snacks with something even better: the house specialty, focaccia di robiola. This is a round of pizza dough, stippled so that it doesn’t rise, that is baked and then split, filled with robiola (a fresh cheese from Italy’s Piedmont region) and then slid back into the wood-burning oven to get gooey, and finally anointed with truffle oil. You can get it augmented with arugula, prosciutto and tomatoes, but I ordered it plain and could not have been happier.

I’m very fond of Oevo but every time I visit, I am irked by the restaurant’s name. “Oevo,” they say, stands for olio extra vergine di oliva, “extra-virgin olive oil” in Italian. In other words, it is an original acronym formed from the letters of a phrase that English speakers don’t understand. It is memorably unmemorable.

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Oevo is at 420 Northern Blvd., Great Neck, 516-504-9690.

Newsday photo / Erica Marcus