Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Great River, at the end of the Southern State Parkway and on the edge of Heckscher State Park, is now a destination for red meat.

George Martin's Strip Steak already is packed on weekends and you can expect the crowd to get bigger on weekdays, too. This is a first-class steak house, with enough high-quality variety of the menu to lure a wide audience.

The latest member of the George Martin Group sends out most of the steakhouse staples, plus winners that range from a maple-brined Berkshire pork chop to pappardelle with shrimp and scallops in lobster-thyme cream sauce. But someone at the table should stick a fork in the dry-aged beef.

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George Martin's chef is Michael Bender, who has been working with group corporate chef Frank Greco. They've put together a place with lots of appeal, whether you're in the cozy, smaller room with the fireplace, the larger dining area opposite the busy bar, or the banquette-lined cutout for six or more that offers a bit more privacy and less noise.

The George Martin Group includes George Martin "The Original" in Rockville Centre; George Martin's Grillfire restaurants in Rockville Centre, Merrick and Long Beach; and Nick's Tuscan Grill in Long Beach.

George Martin's Strip Steak, 60 River Rd., Great River; 631-650-6777.

A George Martin experience ...