Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

New name. New chef. New style.

Welcome to H2O Seafood & Sushi, the fish house remade. This had been H2O Seafood Grill. Under chef Wayne Cafariella, it's a tasty combination of traditional fare, updates, and a renewed emphasis on the uncooked.

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Very good choices include fried oysters with sauce remoulade; the generous lobster bake, with clams, chorizo sausage, corn on the cob and fingerling potatoes; and the "spicy tuna crispy rice sliders," a snappy contribution from the sushi bar. There are plenty of colorful rolls, as well as nigirizushi.

Fans of the house's New England-style clam chowder and the "everything crusted" tuna will be glad to know they're still here.

H2O Seafood & Sushi, 215 W. Main St., Smithtown; 631-361-6464.