Hemisphere in Bay Shore: First bites

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The diver scallops and crisp pork belly combo

The diver scallops and crisp pork belly combo highlights small plates at Hemisphere in Bay Shore. Photo Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Hemisphere packs in enough action to cover more than one-half of the small-plates world.

It's the latest showcase for Jeffery Slade, recently of Madison's in Williston Park and formerly chef at the departed Farmhouse in Greenport.

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At this sleek, sharp spot, he's sending out  savory dishes such as diver scallops paired with crisp pork belly; Kobe beef sliders with caramelized onions and fontina; and crunchy fried rock shrimp with caramelized pineapple and a coulis of spiced pepper.

There's more caramelizing for dessert, too: banana so treated and accompanied by chocolate in a spring roll.

Hemisphere also has live music and an even livelier kitchen. Worth visiting, and soon.

Hemisphere, 9 S. Park Ave., Bay Shore; 631-647-8526.

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