Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Since I’d last eaten at House of Dosas in Hicksville, the South Indian vegetarian restaurant has grown, both in popularity and size. It’s also undergone a style upgrade.

Not surprisingly, I encountered a full house on a recent week night. This is a real contender for top vegetarian restaurant on Long Island and stands as one of the area’s best Indian restaurants overall.

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My dinner began with an order of bhel puri ($3.95), a popular street snack made with puffed rice, onion, chili and spices.  Ordered medium spicy, it ignited the palate without searing it.  Detonating a slow burn was the onion chili rava Mysore masala dosa ($10.95), a spicy semolina crepe — smaller in circumference than the conventional rice dosa — stuffed with a highly seasoned potato mixture. For sheer comfort, it was hard to beat the mixed vegetable uthappam ($8.95), a pillowy rice and lentil flour pancake embedded with vegetables. And the palak paneer ($7.50), spinach with an Indian cottage cheese and spice, was as lively as it was soothing.

House of Dosas is at 416 S. Broadway, Hicksville, 516-938-7517.