Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

On a cold afternoon, lunch at the new Ideal Cheese & Wine Cafe in Huntington was a warm haven. In the front of the place is a cheese shop and, in the rear, a bright table-service cafe hung with colorful paintings.

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From chef Matt Kornfeld’s menu, my companion ordered a “melt” of Comté (a French cow’s milk cheese), French ham, caramelized onion and Dijon mustard on thick brioche bread ($10), accompanied by addictive baked kale chips. If only the bread on that sandwich weren't so sweet. Sliders, three to an order, came out woefully overcooked. But an order of hand-cut pommes frites, or Belgian-style fries, were bronze and creamy — in short, exemplary.  Best was  zucchini “spaghetti” ($10), thin strands of the vegetable standing in for pasta, tossed with Parmigiano-Reggiano, pine nuts, basil and topped with a scoop of house-made ricotta. Light and opulent.

Ideal Cheese & Wine Cafe is at 308 Main St., Huntington, 631-923-3434.