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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Trullo d'Oro has opened in the Hicksville building that most recently housed Nubon Sushi & Grill (and, before that, Capriccio and La Primavera). "Trullo" refers to the distinctive conical-roofed home that is the signature building in Puglia, the region that occupies the heel of Italy's boot.

Puglia is the ancestral home of owners Gino and Maria Giannuzzi. They operated La Caravella at this very address from 1988 to 2003, then went on to run, among other restaurants, Caffe Donatello in Plainview, Villa Parma in Syosset and La Pizzetta in East Norwich. Now they are back with a menu that highlights their native region.

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Panzerottini (fried tomato-mozzarella turnovers), burrata (cream-filled mozzarella), orecchiette with meatballs and strascinate (guitar-pick-shaped fresh pasta) with sausage and broccoli rabe are some of Trullo d'Oro's traditional Pugliese dishes. Also on the menu: beef carpaccio, grilled octopus, paccheri carbonara, veal saltimbocca, veal Milanese and whole roasted branzino. Antipasti range from $8 to $15, pastas from $16 to $21, mains from $18 to $29.

Trullo d'Oro is at 294 N. Broadway, Hicksville, 516-737-0679.