J.A. Heneghan's in Point Lookout: First bites

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French five-onion soup is served at J.A. Heneghan's

French five-onion soup is served at J.A. Heneghan's Tavern, in Point Lookout, in February 2014. Photo Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Between snowstorms, soups matter even more. There are two very good ones at J.A. Heneghan's Tavern in Point Lookout.

Chef Nicole Roarke prepares a fine "five onion" French onion soup, bracing and satisfying, with deeper flavors than usual. And her rich, New England-style clam chowder also is worth the visit.

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There's plenty of pub-style fare here. But Roarke elevates it and just about everything else. The Dijon-mustard crusted pork chop, served wth colcannon, the Irish favorite of potatoes and cabbage, is excellent. Likewise, braised short ribs with saffron risotto.

This will be a satisfying stop when the weather warms, too.

J.A. Heneghan's Tavern, 51 Lido Blvd., Point Lookout; 516-544-2777.

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