Jack Halyards in Oyster Bay: First bites

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Grilled swordfish with avocado relish and citrus vinaigrette Grilled swordfish with avocado relish and citrus vinaigrette is a main course at Jack Halyards in Oyster Bay. (April 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday Peter Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

New executive chef John Brill is livening up the cuisine at Jack Halyards in Oyster Bay.

Brill, much-praised for his work at  Four Food Studio in Melville and the departed Blue Lagoon in West Babylon, sends out  some very good seafood and does equally well with homey American dishes.

Try the grilled Atlantic swordfish finished with avocado relish and a citrus vinaigrette. Or the crisp-skinned pork shank, accompanied by risotto. Brill's trio of sliders also is good, along with a roasted beet salad boosted with crumbled blue cheese.

Jack Halyards in on the former site of Fiddleheads.

Jack Halyards American Bar & Grill, 62 South St., Oyster Bay; 516-922-2999.

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